Poor retention can break your business. These are the five things that go into mastering retention:
Weight On Natural Lashes
Weight effects retention. With the mega volume movement, it's very common for lash artists to forget this limitation. If you want to improve your clients' retention consider the amount of weight being placed on the natural lash. Ask yourself, "are my clients' natural lashes healthy enough to handle the added weight?"
You build loyal clientele by being honest. If someone is a bad candidate for "volume" lashes, be honest. A client may be asking for "volume" when looking for a "full" look. Assure them that you can get the full look they desire even with classics. Master classics and people will be questioning whether you use classics or volume. If that sounds unbelievable, check out my classics master class as it becomes available. If you will like to learn more subscribe for the latest info on upcoming classes.
Temperature Balance
LASH GLUE CAN BEGIN TO HARDEN IF ITS EXPOSED TO HEAT, DIRECT SUNLIGHT, OR EXCESS MOISTURE.
Some glue will need to be stored in a sealed dark container and/or kept refrigerated. When purchasing a glue always look at the storage instructions as these may vary across brands. If storage instructions are not displayed contact the brand before purchasing. Stacy Lash is my preferred glue. I have used it for years without issue. I use it for both classics and volume.
For most glues the ideal lashing temperature is between 68 to 71 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 21.7 Celsius). I recommend using a thermometer to help track the temperate in your room. I also advise investing into a humidifier and/or dehumidifier to balance your room's humidity. You'll want to keep the room's humidity between 45 and 60 percent. Best way to keep track of both is with a hydrometer/thermometer.
Technique
Technique plays a huge role in achieving maximum retention. Traditionally, lash artists are taught to either place an extension on top or beneath the natural lash during application. However, experience has shown me that the best way to apply lashes is with the wrapping technique. This technique applies extensions at an angle so that the extension is hugging the natural lash (see image).
Products
For the best retention, prime the natural lashes prior to applying lash extensions and always finish with sealing the glue. I've lost count of how many clients have told me their previous lash artist never used primer or even sealant.
Not all products are made equally.
There are primers that are very drying and if a client already has dry lashes, lashing will be increasingly difficult. To avoid this I use the Blink primer cleanser. On top of being a primer, it cleanses and moisturizes the lashes. I've never had retention issues using this primer even with my clients that have extra dry lashes.
For glue I stick to my tried and true Stacy lash glue.
Finally for my sealer I use Allure. Sealer creates an extra barrier so the glue takes longer to break down resulting in longer retention. I even recommend clients purchase this sealant when they go on vacation and plan to be in water or extreme temperatures. My clients love it.
Aftercare Instructions and Client Education
No matter who you are, improper aftercare can drastically reduce retention. Can't expect perfect retention if makeup and greasy products are constantly by your clients' eyes. This is why I educate my clients on how to properly care for their extensions. I hand them instructions to take home and review it with them before closing out the appointment. At the very least, showing proper brushing and washing is an absolute must. If you start implementing these changes I guarantee you will see an improvement with your retention.
See my after care instructions for a free download of aftercare instructions and how to educate your client.
Final Thoughts
Don't let poor retention undo hours of work and destroy the reputation you've made as a lash artist. Weight, temperature/humidity, technique, products and aftercare are all factors you can control to maintain maximum retention. Longer retention means extra time for you and what matters to you. Make these changes and enjoy the benefits.
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